where's the counterculture?

it seems to me, after a while in latin america, that there are two kinds of people here: those who don't have much money but who would like to have some so that they can buy into the "consumer goods" dream, and those that have plenty of money and are glad about that because it allows them to buy into the "consumer goods" dream.

this feeling of unease, you may remember, started in monterrey, mexico, my first destination in latin america. people seemed to think it odd that one might have money and yet not use it to demonstrate status, and that perhaps one's life goals were not perfectly aligned with those of the actors in a car commercial. living in bogotá has made this point even more obvious.

we rich westerners like to perpetuate the fantasy that the rich countries, usually headed by the USA, are big bad boys who mess up the rest of the world with their dysfunctional cultures of individuality, workworkwork, and consumerism. but in all my journey through the US, it seemed i was never far from a grass-roots environmental movement, mothers against nuclear power, or students complaining about multi-nationals' treatment of poor workers in el salvador. and the same can be said about brighton, too.

now i should say right now, that of course my impressions are entirely personal, and i make not even the slightest attempt to gather a representative sample. however, my impressions are at least based on actual interactions with actual citizens of the country, rather than any form of conjecture. and i have to say that i have yet to meet the socially-conscious latin american. if there is a barrio of bogota where everyone eats granola and meets every wednesday in the vegan cafe to read poetry and watch films about the wall in israel, i have yet to encounter or even hear of it.

perhaps unsurprisingly, there are a lot of slogans scrawled on walls, along the lines of "don't vote: organise and fight!" however, not a single person i've mentioned these to has said "yeah, that's right!". everyone is like, "oh yeah, those", a bit ashamed that their country is uncool enough to have such graffiti, not realising that i am proud of the graffiti in my home town! "destroy your TV"! yeah! to me that shows that i live in a place that is socially conscious.

i met a really nice girl a couple of saturdays ago in the kind of swanky restaurant/bar/club that would never admit me in london. she was there by accident, she isn't a regular shallow party girl, she was at pains to point out when we met up later in the week. and indeed, she had moved away from her family in cali, come to bogotá to follow her career as a programmer, was also studying auditing, lived in her own apartment, and seemed happily unmarried and unchildrened at the age of 27. a pretty intelligent and independent girl, and not afraid of bucking those latina traditions. but guess what, when we started talking properly, it was like we were from different planets:

me: "so what do you like to do? what are you into?"
her: "oh, you know. going to the mall. talking to my friends on the phone."
me: "oh. you like films?"
her: "yeah, i loved x-men III and mission impossible III! i love hollywood!"
me: "oh. read anything good recently?"
her: "i don't really read."
me: "and so what is your dream? where are you heading in your life?"
her: "well i'd love to have my own place, and i want to have a nice car."

as we walked through the gridlocked traffic to get to the highly efficient public transport system home, i tried some of the regular anti-car arguments on her. look at all the people trapped in their silly tin cans! sat in traffic! destroying the environment! destroying social cohesion!

she was like "what do you mean? think how comfortable it is, and without all those other people bashing into you." i didn't pursue it further.

i don't mean to pick on this one girl, but she does conveniently illustrate the more general point. everyone here is SO much more consumer-driven, and the idea of a sort of counter-culture, a non-acceptance of that basic 50s american goal of "more and better appliances lead to happiness!" is mostly just met with blank incomprehension.

perhaps it is because the UK and the US did have a counter-culture in the 50s - 70s, and Colombia did not. to be fair, they were probably too busy being mired in an everlasting civil war. indeed, if those people who can escape such things decide to just close down their focus and concentrate on shiny things, and the getting of them, who am I to blame or question them? and i don't. i merely bring this surprising cultural difference to your attention. perhaps it isn't what you would have expected either.

what are you doing in bogotá?

more or less nothing. i interviewed a company to see if i wanted to be employed by them to teach english, but decided that (a) i didn't want to commit to two months, and (b) i couldn't really be bothered to work. so i am basically idle, and my time is spent wandering the streets of bogotá which is called "andando conociendo" in spanish which sounds better, hanging out and er doing not much. it's nice. oh yeah and watching the football.

take a look at the recent behaviour of the colombian peso (this is the sort of link that dates quickly...) and it seems that by far my best option is to spend pounds here, rather than earn pesos.

however, asisnet.com looks like an interesting place. perhaps i'll go and interview them for a job...

Travelling without moving

So Jason left yesterday, and the very same morning I spoke to his landlord and agreed to keep the flat for one more month. I handed over the pesos, and now am suddenly a Bogotá resident. It feels good!

They charge 600,000 pesos, which is around 130 quid, for the month. Seemed pretty reasonable to me -- until an Irish guy told me I should be paying half that. Well, I'm happy for now, because I have a place to myself in a cool location, and I can always re-assess when the month is up.

I have been looking around at various options for teaching english. I don't really need to work, since staying in one place is more or less cheaper than moving around, but I thought it might be fun. A couple of TEFL courses are offered here, running for a month or two, and certainly look comprehensive, but they cost more or less the same as they would in the UK -- from 600 to 1000 quid. A hefty chunk of travel budget right there.

Moreover, it appears that a native speaker, especially one with a University Degree, can more or less walk into private tuition type jobs. The Irish guy mocking my rent is doing this, at about US$10 an hour, which ain't bad really. My question is, do I want an excellent TEFL qualification which will prepare me and allow me to travel the world teaching English to groups of adults or children? Or do I just want to kill a month or two in Bogota? I guess in reality, the latter is the case.

I really must go and buy a jumper. It gets pretty cold here in the evenings! I think that is why I like the weather here so much: there is always a slight cold edge to the air, like a sunny Spring or Autumn day in England. Although the weather patterns are all mixed up, another expat told me: the rainy season is supposed to be way over, but yesterday the wind was strong enough to blow the parasols away in Juan Valdez!

So that's it. After 8 months of travelling, I am now settling down for a while. For how long, I really don't know. One side-effect is that my blog entries are going to be become a whole lot less interesting, and probably less regular. Another is that now that I have a permanent address, I also have a permanent phone number! It's 33 44 323 -- this, from the UK.